Remember my blathering excitement last year when I happened upon a vintage skirt pattern with a nifty little drafting feature that allowed me to do easy-as-pie french seamed in-seam pockets? I didn't do a particularly good job of explaining it I'm afraid. But after finding the same type of pockets in my recent Fujiyama Mama frock I was determined do a quick and dirty step-by-step tutorial for you......
It's super super easy and you can adapt any pattern (skirt, dress or pants) that uses in-seam pockets.
As you can see the side seam of the dress pieces have a little extension on them - this is the brilliantly simple feature and the only alteration you will need to make to your pattern. It's the width of the seam allowance you wish to use, and the length of the pocket piece at the seam. As simple as that. There's no need change the pocket pieces (BTW how cute is the little sewing machine foot that demarcates the seam line? Love vintage patterns!).
So.... (And I'm really sorry I used a fabric without an obvious right and wrong side - head smacking myself!).
Start by attaching your pocket pieces to the respective fronts and backs of your dress/skirt. Use a french seam - this truncated demo version has a 5/8 inch seam allowance, so I did wrong sides together using a 2/8 inch seam allowance, trimmed to avoid that nasty 'fluffy bikini line look', pressed, then sewed the right sides together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the pocket bags away from the garment so they sit nice and flat.
|Pinning the wrong sides together as step 1 of frenchin' a seam|
|Seam trimmed of fluff and ready to press open|
|Right sides pinned together (from underneath)|
|Right sides pinned together (from top)|
|Finished french seam of 1 piece of pocket bag and 1 piece of skirt/dress/whatever|
Press the pocket bag piece away from the skirt/dress:
Repeat these steps for the remaining pocket bags/side seams.
I've drawn the seam allowance in with chalk to make it more obvious.
Pin together the matching pocket bags and skirt/dress pieces and sew the side seams and pocket bag seams - to french them sew wrong sides together, trim the fluff, press and sew the right sides together.